Stories du Moment
A new mayor for Paris, changes to becoming French, and Epstein investigations in France
Was January 100 days long? It sure felt like it. In the midst of accepting the new world order and defending a truly sovereign Europe, France has been handling issues of its own: passing the 2026 budget with great delay (remember that whole debacle from last year? The Prime Minister musical chairs?), preparing for the municipal elections next month, and tackling a *serious* and widespread nitrous oxide addiction among teens and young adults (for real).
What else is going on? Read on.
VOTING IN A NEW MAYOR FOR PARIS
Our days with Anne are drawing to a close. No matter who takes over this spring, Mayor Anne Hidalgo’s legacy will be focused on the sweeping urban changes she was able to make over the course of her two terms. Naturally, some of those changes have made her a divisive figure. (See: the profile I wrote in The New Parisienne, pg. 111!) To get a real sense of her accomplishments, it’s best not to speak to anyone who drives a car in Paris (especially those who don’t need to drive here). Some of the data bears out: air pollution in Paris has dropped 50% thanks to its transformation into a cycling city, more green spaces, and adapting to European-wide climate policies.
Anyway, back to the elections: despite taking place in a month, it feels like voters are only now waking up to the fact that a) it’s happening b) it’s important. Election campaigning doesn’t begin a year or more out here as it does in the U.S. which may explain part of the slow rise to action among voters. But it’s worth getting informed and paying attention to what unfolds: this campaign is a testing ground for national political trends ahead of the presidential election in 2027, including debates over housing, security, the future of the city’s green strategy, and, increasingly, foreign interference in local politics.
How does it work? Voting in the municipals is different.
As Katy Lee explained it in this excellent newsletter:
In a country where every citizen gets to vote directly for the president, you’d be forgiven for assuming that the mayor of the capital gets elected in the same way. Bah non ! When Hidalgo steps down in March, her successor will be chosen in a roundabout way that does not involve Parisians having any direct say over who becomes mayor. We’re also using a slightly tweaked voting system this year, so how it’ll all shake out is anyone’s guess. The whole thing is intriguingly unpredictable.
The main thing to understand is that on voting day, you won’t be able to cast a vote for an individual candidate — instead, you’ll be voting for a list. You can’t yet peruse these candidate lists, because would-be local despots have until February 26 to declare that they’re running (if you’re thinking about it, go for it! Shoot for the moon!).
Other election and French politics-related reads:
The battle for Paris: can Rachida Dati fend off scandal to become next mayor? (let’s hope not. The Guardian)
Le Pen stuck on French election sidelines… until July 7 (Politico)
The far right in power always co-opts culture. In France, it’s already begun (Alexander Hurst for The Guardian)
WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BECOME FRENCH IN 2026?
A lot has changed since I was naturalized in 2014, especially since the start of this year. My friend, France 24 journalist and newly minted French citizen Charli James joined me on the podcast to dig into her experience, the new requirements (which apply to permanent residency and citizenship applications), the political reasons behind these changes, and, of course, their implications. We also discuss George Clooney’s recent naturalization and whether a written test is truly the best way to assess integration and dedication to the country. Listen below!
FORMER FRENCH CULTURE MINISTER TIED TO EPSTEIN
Who else is mentioned in the Epstein Files? The former French culture and education minister, and resigning president of the Institut du Monde Arabe, Jack Lang. Why might you know him? He masterminded everyone’s favorite annual summer solstice bash, Fête de la Musique, in 1982. He also defended the democratization of culture. Certain restaurant owners might know him best for dining and dashing. But now, the world will know him for his suspected involvement in “laundering of tax fraud proceeds.” This in addition to a report in Mediapart about “an offshore fund based in the Virgin Islands and jointly held by Epstein and Lang’s daughter, Caroline Lang.”
You know what’s nice, though? France immediately began investigating. Lang resigned from L’Institut du Monde Arabe in short order.
As for Musk, who appears a zillion times in the Epstein files, too: the Paris offices of X were raided by the Paris prosecutor’s cyber-crime unit last week “as part of an investigation into suspected offences including unlawful data extraction and complicity in the possession of child sexual abuse material (CSAM).” We love to see it. But I also love that Musk whined that it was a political attack to which France’s ministry of foreign affairs account on X replied with the message above. What’s the deal with FrenchResponse? It’s a meme account meant to combat disinformation.
WANT TO LEARN ABOUT WOMEN IN PARIS?
This isn’t so much a story of the moment but a permanent theme I try to explore in my work (more on that coming soon!). I also encourage travelers to engage in experiences that focus especially on women, past and present, who influence culture. Last year, Carrie Angoff launched Elective, a brilliant study-abroad-for-adults venture with courses hosted in several destinations, including Andalusia, Istanbul, and Palermo. But Paris is where the 8-day course centers women revolutionaries, artists, and intellectuals who have shaped Paris. Cécile Balavoine, a novelist and literary scholar who teaches French literature at Columbia in Paris (at Reid Hall), leads the week with expert-led discussions, site visits, and a variety of immersive experiences (and bonus activities!). There are still a few spots left for the April session and you can get 5% off the week by using my code PARIS26. Get more details here!
ELSEWHERE
I was interviewed on two great podcasts recently, should you be interested: talking about finding my voice with Jane Bertch on GenerateHer; discussing being a longtime resident and watching the city I love change on Clashists.
The definitive essay on the Parisian domestic nuisance: calcaire.
( Susanna Schrobsdorff for Monocle)
French government officials stopped using American-owned tech.
Is it realistic to ditch it all Europe-wide? (Politico)A man died in police custody in Paris. Why aren’t we more outraged? (Millefeuille)
What’s in a shirt? The Cult of Charvet (The New York Times)
How I sabotaged my career when I moved to Paris (Franchement)
OVERHEARD IN
“Ce n’est pas que ce bus qui est sale; tout est sale dans le monde.”
(It’s not only this bus that’s dirty; everything in the world is dirty)
”C’est ça!”
(That’s right!)
Two strangers lamenting the state of the 96 bus and so much more, February 6.
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Great post - thank you
Love, as ever since you began including them, the overheard bits. Plus parisien, tu meurs!